Les Creations de Narisawa, Tokyo

http://www.narisawa-yoshihiro.com

“I hope dessert is served by a bear”

Sometimes it’s good to be really hungover for a meal so you can enter into the spirit of things and truly appreciate the concept. This was one of these meals, back in February.

We’d got to bed around 5. A 10am meeting in the city. Lunch at 12.30. #bosh

What’s a meal without a concept? This one had it in spades. We were here to get back to nature – to go on a journey from the forest to the sea. It included cedar water, oysters cooked in charcoal, essence of sea snake (!) & soil (really). Try explaining to someone that you’ve paid ($$$) to eat soil. It smacked occasionally of conceptual bullshit to the detriment of taste and in our addled shape we were wise to it.

There were some stunning courses – lobster salad, crab risotto, squid. Truly memorable dishes that showcased the ingredients. Then there was Hilda beef cooked in charcoal that despite the frozen sake (topping up the spirit levels) was a waste. Charcoal? Why?

Desserts were excellent, especially the petit fours. Sadly no bear.

This was a meal I’ll remember for a long time as much for the laughs as the food. It also made question whether fine dining had jumped the shark. But there were meals ahead to restore the faith. I’m looking at you Den.

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