Cutler & Co

55-57 Gertrude St, Fitzroy, Melbourne

Relatively new in Australia and there are certain events that you have to go to while living here. One is the Australian Open. It’s a perfect excuse to experience the laid back vibe and try one or two of Melbourne’s eating hotspots. Cutler & Co won out against some of the more avant-garde eateries.

Based in trendy Fritzroy, we started with a decent martini in a bar around the corner before heading to the restaurant It was a Saturday night and the place was packed. The place is all a bit post-industrial with exposed brick and girders, and a pleasant vibe. From an interesting menu we started with a variety of oysters:

3 distinct varieties (Heritage, Wallace Lake, Clair de Lune) all were pretty briney with plenty of iodine. Not all together pleasant, apart from the Clair de Lune). I think I prefer my oysters a little more creamy. Clearly I need to do more work on understanding the differences. Nonetheless, they weren’t too disappointing.

… this was due to a starter which made the whole evening worthwhile – Salad Lyonnaise:

What a plate of food – pancetta, garlic sausage, smoked tongue, terrine, confit gizzards & poached egg yolk, with a bit of frizee salad. Every forkful was a different combination of porky goodness with great textures and taste. It was an absolute treat.

My wife had marron on a bed of rocket. I was a little too distracted to pay it much attention, but she enjoyed it. Importantly, she didn’t care for my plate of offal so I had it all to myself.

The main courses continued the excellent start. Against type I opted for fish – Pan roasted Leather Jacketwith an accompanying ‘risotto’with clams:

The fish was well cooked, but perhaps not the best flavoured fish. However the dish as a whole was excellent – Good spicing and a great textural flavours, especially the side dish.

My wife’s dish was also lovely – Slow cooked baby chicken with creamed corn, miso & grilled spring onion:

Remember when chicken actually tasted of chicken? This brought back those memories. A variety of preparations – breaded drumstick, rolled thigh & poached breast. All were excellent with the sweetcorn providing a bit of retro styling.

After a couple of great dishes, we could only share a dessert – chocolate ice cream sandwich, vanilla parfait with salted caramel

One portion divided onto two plates was a nice touch. It was very pleasant. I’m a sucker for salted caramel anyway, so it was always going to be good.

The service was good, if a little cutesy! So finished an excellent meal. This is a restaurant with bags of confidence and a bit of swagger. It comes through in the gutsy and uncomplicated cooking. The touches of finesse are there if you want, but its the big bold flavours which win through, as it should.

We will be back.


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